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11本期节目我们将带大家走进爱马仕（Hermès）的品牌故事。不同于单纯聊 Birkin、Kelly 和“配货”，这一期我们从爱马仕最早的马具生意讲起，整理了 5 条关于爱马仕的 Fun Facts（冷知识/Trivia）。
从1837年的巴黎马具工坊，到第一只用来装马鞍的包；从一战期间偶然发现拉链，到二战物资短缺催生出今天标志性的爱马仕橙。我们会一边聊这些有趣的品牌故事，一边看看：爱马仕到底是怎样跟着交通方式、生活方式和用户需求的变化，一步步从马鞍做到顶奢的？ 当然，还会介绍其中值得积累的英语词汇和表达！☕
时间轴：
00:00 开场：为什么大家总喜欢说“XX界的爱马仕”？贵，可能只是其中一个原因。
06:01 Fact 1: 爱马仕最早根本不卖包，而是一家巴黎马具工坊。
21:39 Fact 2: 爱马仕历史上的第一只包，竟然是为了装马鞍和马靴。
35:16 Fact 3: 一战期间发现拉链：爱马仕如何把美国的新技术带回法国。
44:57 Fact 4: “我怎么都找不到一只像样的包”：一句抱怨催生了爱马仕的现代手袋。
53:31 Fact 5: 爱马仕橙竟然是个意外？战争时期的“没得选”，最后成了最醒目的品牌符号。
01:03:08 从“被迫使用”到品牌资产：爱马仕为什么在战后继续保留橙色？
01:07:08 下期预告：爱马仕 Logo 上为什么是一辆没有乘客的马车？
Fun Facts:
1. 爱马仕的出身并不是名牌包，其实是“高级马具店”
The adventure began in Paris in 1837 when the harness-maker Thierry Hermès opened a workshop in rue Basse-du-Rempart. From the beginning, he understood and anticipated his customers’ expectations, their desire for simplicity and lightness in a city teeming with modern movement. His harnesses embodied discreet finesse as well as endurance in all conditions: a technical achievement that was recognized with an award at the Universal Exhibition of 1867.
这一切冒险始于 1837 年的巴黎。彼时，马具制作师蒂埃里·爱马仕（Thierry Hermès）在 Basse-du-Rempart 大街开设了一家工作坊。从一开始，他便洞察并预见了客户的期待：在这个充满现代律动的都市里，人们渴望简约与轻盈。他制作的马具不仅体现了低调的精致，更拥有适应各种环境的耐用性。他的一项技术成就也在 1867 年的世界博览会上赢得了奖项认可。
来源： Six generations of artisans
2. 爱马仕的第一只包是为了装马鞍 (1892)
For over a century, Hermès has been synonymous with unparalleled craftsmanship, timeless elegance, and innovation. Among its most historic creations stands the Haut à Courroies (HAC)—a bag that not only marked the beginning of Hermès’ leather-goods legacy but also served as the direct inspiration for the Birkin bag.
Originally crafted in the early 1900s, the HAC was designed to carry equestrian essentials like saddles and riding boots with effortless refinement.
一个多世纪以来，爱马仕一直是无与伦比的工艺、永恒的优雅以及创新精神的代名词。在其最负盛名的历史杰作中，Haut à Courroies（简称 HAC）占有举足轻重的地位——这款包不仅开启了爱马仕皮具传奇的篇章，更是铂金包（Birkin）的直接灵感来源。
HAC 最初创作于 20 世纪初，其设计初衷是以一种毫不费力的精致感，来承载马鞍和马靴等马术必需品。
来源： Sotheby's - Hermès Haut à Courroies: The Original Birkin Bag
3. 爱马仕是拉链的“代言人”
Sent to the United States during the First World War to supervise leather purchases for the French Cavalry, Émile-Maurice discovered a continent which had entered the era of mass production and whose great leaps in the technology of transport had stimulated a fast-growing luggage industry. Among the things that impressed him was the zip, or “American fastener.” He managed to obtain exclusive rights to use of the zipper for both leather goods and clothing and was thus the first to introduce the device in France.
一战期间，埃米尔-莫里斯（Émile-Maurice）被（法国政府）派往美国，负责为法国骑兵团监管皮革采购。在那里，他发现那片大陆已经跨入了大规模生产（mass production）时代，而运输技术的飞跃也正刺激着旅行箱包行业的迅猛发展。在所有让他大开眼界的新事物中，拉链——也就是当时所谓的‘美国紧固件’——深深吸引了他。他设法拿到了拉链在皮具和服装领域的独家使用权（exclusive rights），并因此成为了将这一装置引入法国的第一人
来源： Worldtempus - History of the Brand
4. 爱马仕手袋的诞生源自掌门人太太的怨言
In 1922, the wife of Emile-Maurice Hermès made a similar complaint to the one Jane Birkin would utter 60 years later: she couldn't find a decent bag anywhere. Emile-Maurice created the Bolide - the 'racing car' - a sleek, modernist design incorporating the newfangled zip fastener, a device which Emile-Maurice had admired so much on a visit to New York that he had bought the patent rights to it. So the Hermès handbag was born.
1922年，埃米尔-莫里斯·爱马仕（Emile-Maurice Hermès）的妻子发出了一段抱怨，这与 60 年后简·伯金（Jane Birkin）所说的如出一辙：她在任何地方都找不到一只像样的包。于是，埃米尔-莫里斯创作了 Bolide（意为“赛车”）。这款包采用了圆润且极具现代感的设计，并巧妙地融入了当时还很**新奇（newfangled）**的拉链——这正是埃米尔-莫里斯在访问纽约时大为赞赏、并为此买断了专利权的那项装置。就这样，爱马仕手袋诞生了。
来源： The Guardian - Who spends £11,000 on a handbag?
5. 爱马仕“橙”的出现纯属意外
When World War II began in 1939, shortages struck Europe. Everything from sugar to silk to steel became terribly scarce and often rationed. The shortages were extensive in war-torn France and seemed to impact every facet of life and business, including the packaging available to the Hermès design house.
Paper boxes made from cardboard could still be found, but cream and marigold dyes were no longer available. The only color the supplier could provide turned out to be a bold orange. The Hermès orange box was born from hardship and necessity and grew to become quickly recognized as a symbol of ultra-luxury worldwide.
1939年第二次世界大战爆发，欧洲陷入了物资匮乏的困境。从砂糖、丝绸到钢铁，一切物资都变得极其稀缺，且往往采取配给制。在饱受战争蹂躏的法国，这种短缺不仅广泛存在，而且似乎冲击了生活和商业的方方面面，其中就包括爱马仕设计工坊所能获取的包装材料。
当时虽然还能找到硬纸板做的纸盒，但奶油色和金盏花色的染料已经断货了。供应商唯一能提供的颜色竟然是一种鲜艳的橙色。爱马仕橙色包装盒诞生于艰难与匮乏，却迅速成长为全球公认的顶级奢侈品象征。
来源： The History of Hermès Orange
